So, after the size of Canyonlands how is the Grand Canyon going to measure up? Well, it does have two visitors centres, one on the North Rim and one on the South Rim. And they are about 10 miles apart as the crow flies but 220 miles apart when driving! Grand Canyon is grand because of its length, depth and sheer spectacle of cliffs, strata and colours. It is enormous!
Our first stop is at the North Rim campsite in the park (lucky to get a pitch), which is about 30 miles from the entrance. We drive through forest and open areas, always looking for large wildlife and arrive at the site. We cycle a further three miles or so to ‘Angels Point’ for our first glimpse of the canyon itself. That glimpse is accompanied with a beer from the hotel which is built right on the rim edge.
Emma and Alex walk out to the end of Angels Point but my fear of heights overrules me and I stop early. But we all watch the setting sun illuminating the canyon, just from different viewpoints!
Then it’s cycle back to Wendy, food and bed and adjust to a time zone change.
The following day starts chilly with some laundry to be done as well - clean clothes are essential when walking in the heat.
We then tackle a strenuous 5.5 mile walk through the woods to another rim viewpoint. We spot a Mountain Horned Lizard plus some small Toad Lizards and really beautiful butterflies and lovely hummingbird moths. We get to the trail end and sit on the rim with stunning views over a side canyon leading to the main canyon itself.
Looking down into the side canyon there is a trail visible. That is the North to South Rim trail which descends to the bottom of the canyon, crosses the Colorado River and then ascends to the South Rim. It’s 21 miles, very very hot, steep, not much water along the way, takes 2 days and needs a special permit - and probably a health declaration as well to reduce the number of airlifts out of distressed walkers!
And water is very important as we manage to run out of it on our way back to Wendy. And our trail was just 4 hours and 5.5 miles!!
We move straight on to drive to the South Rim. We pass the Vermillion Cliffs (20 miles of them), pass over the Colorado River, stop for burgers, pass lots of Native American craft stands, stop at one but nothing takes our fancy, keep on driving and eventually arrive at the desert view campsite close to the East Entrance to the park.
The morning dawns bright and sunny so into the park we go and stop at the ‘Watchtower’. This is a 40 foot high folly on the side of the canyon with stunning views across and along the canyon.
There is timed entry into the tower to control numbers, we are quickly in, and it is really unusual inside. Decorated with various native designs and murals plus artefacts. A lovely painted ceiling than the 360 deg panorama once you are on the roof.
Fabulous place and inside there are local native artists showing their skills and wares. So, a couple of Navajo ‘Hopi’ dolls are acquired!
We move on to Navajo point and then Lipan point for different views of the canyon. Arriving at the South Rim visitor centre we are stunned by the size of the parking lots - huge! A lot of visitors! There is a several mile walk along the canyon rim from the centre and we gently stroll this in the heat going to Moran Point and then further along to Mather Point. All the while the canyon is below us revealing different views and colours and we try to spot Californian Condors, but just get Turkey Vultures soaring and gliding the canyon walls.
As the sun starts to set there is palpable excitement amongst the visitors at the unfolding spectacle and we move, walk, run between Mather Point and Yovapai point to try and capture the ever changing light in the canyon.
And also to gape at some visitors just hanging over unprotected edges just for that Instagram picture!
Back at the campsite after a long, hot and tiring
day it’s pizza time! And we also hear a pack of coyotes calling to each other from really close by. Wild nature in a campsite - eek!!
After so much canyon viewing yesterday, we do a bit of domestic work and then get the shuttle bus into Grand Canyon village. We check out the train station just as a tour train arrives and then move on to the el Tovar hotel for a light lunch with a view of the canyon - prime table spot and air conditioning!
The heat is getting to us so we decide to not do another walk and instead move on towards our next destination - Petrified Forest National Park. We start along the road from Flagstaff, Arizona heading towards Williams, following the old Route 66 in some places. Our overnight stop is in the township of Holbrook unfortunately several truckers like the same place and there is a very busy freight train line close by, so rest and sleep are a bit compromised!
Guy
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