It’s the 6th November and after the locals have been partying until 1am we decide to not rush about, plus it’s still a bit rainy. So we have a leisurely breakfast in one of the La Calera eateries, lovely huevos (eggs) Mexican style and a sweet tart for Alex (who only likes dippy soldiers for eggs).
Emma finds and books a hotel in Veracruz where we can be based whilst sorting out the shipping of Big Blue and Stella. We drive for a couple of hours, about 75 miles, to the Hotel Mocambo in Veracruz. The hotel is a bit of a faded icon, dating back to the 1920’s with some history to it and a working swimming pool and very close to the beach.
Once we had checked in then it was getting stuff sorted. Emma and Alex take washing to a laundry whilst I go and get the rig washed (has to be clean before shipping!). Then it’s back to the hotel and pack what we need for the next 4 to 6 weeks whilst Stella is being shipped to Colombia. We have to empty Big Blue (as he will be unlocked for shipping), get rid of all food and alcohol (not allowed to ship), decide what clothes we three need that will fit in two rucksacks, get all our valuables and electronics and miscellaneous other stuff into another bag. That was hard work, sort of like moving house but in miniature.
Once all our stuff was in our room then it was a short stroll down the beach road to the Villa Rica hotel restaurant for a well deserved dinner (just average) and a couple of Margaritas beside the sea. A gentle stroll along the beach gets us back to the hotel and bed.
Tuesday the 7th November and we are up early to get to the shippers by 8am, about 30 minutes from the hotel. There we meet another British couple, Charlie and Dale with their converted DHL Mercedes Sprinter van. Turns out they have written the van conversion bible and are van life and insta celebs! I head off with the shippers to the ‘Banjercito’ to cancel the TIP (Temporary Import Permit) and more importantly get the deposit back! The lady driving the car is brilliant and should be driving Formula 1 cars the way she shot through the traffic, it was a fantastic ride! Upon my return then Emma and Alex head back to the hotel whilst I go with one of the shipping staff to take the combo to the port.
Normally, the journey to the port takes about 45 minutes. But not today! It takes over 5 hours, with no food and only limited water. Transpires the military are holding a security exercise and everything is seriously delayed. We eventually get to the port, have the whole combo x-rayed and then go to the compound to park. At least there is a vehicle to take us back to the office and then taxi to the hotel.
Whilst I’m kicking my heels in a traffic queue, Emma and Alex are exploring the pools at the hotel and Alex get a rubber ring to play with. It's good for Alex to have a bit of kiddy down time as he's developed a nasty cold sore so obviously needs a break.
Food proves to be problematical, the hotel buffet is “unglamorous “ and the shacks in the beach is stuff Alex won’t eat. So they both head back to Villa Rica - where they initially serve them with fish tacos where the fish is obviously off. Emma sorts them out and more palatable food is served! Then it’s back to the hotel pools and finally the room to test from the very hot sun.
When I return, very hungry, we head off in the opposite direction from Villa Rica and find a posh Italian restaurant where great pizzas are rapidly consumed.
After such a busy day we take our time in the morning until we find out when the customs inspection will be. It’s planned for late afternoon so we all head into Veracruz old town (centro historico) and explore. First stop is the Gran Cafe de la Parroquia to have the traditional ‘Cafe Lechero’ which is poured from a great height and is an old tradition of Veracruz. You have to bang your spoon on the cup for th waiters to bring the lechero.
The old streets are beautiful and there is a cool church with the Zocalo (square) being really colourful.
We search for a rucksack to carry the valuables and eventually find something suitable in the market. Emma and Alex head back to the hotel whilst I head to the shippers to go for the Customs inspection.
At the port I have to empty the inside of Stella and lay everything that was loose on the tarmac outside. The customs lady checks Big Blue, all doors and bonnet open, then checks Stella. A missed bottle of booze provides some entertainment and embarrassment - but the customs lady just lets the dock workers dispose of it and no trouble for me! After the drugs dog had had a good sniff and given an all clear it’s re-pack everything, lock Stella and that’s it. Big Blue and Stella are now ready to ship - once customs give the necessary paperwork and approval.
It’s now day four of shipping and we can’t leave until the customs paperwork has arrived at the shippers - have to be around just in case! After a nice lie in we head back to the old town and walk the promenade area and then head to the Naval Museum.
The museum centre floor is a giant map of the world, great to show Alex where we’ve been so far and where we’re going to. Alex loves the museum especially the helicopter and the ship simulator. Driving a ship into Veracruz harbour is quite tricky!
We shop for some shoes for me and Alex (mine are worn out and Alex has outgrown his). We also spot a few old beetles - we keep seeing them in Mexico as they were made here!
Then we head to the Zocalo for a beer and watch them prepare for the local danzon. We find a bookshop, looking for a Lonely Planet guide for Colombia but no success. A local restaurant serves up a superb garlic and pepper shrimp with marsoca gratin and Alex had good old fish and chips.
We return to the Zocalo and enjoy the danzon. There is a big band and lots of couples, wearing matching outfits, dancing away. It’s a lovely atmosphere with the church providing a backlight to the spectacle - Emma really wanted to join in but the dancing skills of the couples showed a lot/years of practice!
It’s now the 10th Nov and eventually, after 5 days in Veracruz, we get the news that customs have issued the paperwork and we don’t have to stay any more. So we have a lazy morning planning our next moves to the Yucatan and Colombia and enjoying the pool. Pool time is good for Alex and life is going to be different for the next few weeks as we become backpackers!
After a late checkout we head to the main bus station by taxi. Our backpacks are super full and heavy as well as another bag for hand carrying. At the bus station we have to give up our bottle of Tequila but our beers are not spotted.
Then it’s off by the ADO night bus to Campeche, over 12 hours and 500 miles away.
Guy
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